The next stop on my trip was the island of Naoshima, in the Seto Inland Sea.
This island was, until about 20 years ago, a small island with a declining population. There was a large refinery on the island but little more.
From the Benesse website:
In 1985, Tetsuhiko Fukutake, the founder of Fukutake Publishing Co., Ltd. (now Benesse Corporation), who nurtured a dream of creating an area where children from around the world could gather on an island in the Seto Inland Sea, came together with Chikatsugu Miyake, then mayor of Naoshima, whose own dream was to develop the south side of Naoshima as a pristine and educational cultural area. These two men formed a mutual agreement to develop Naoshima. Activities commenced with a trial camp for children, operated by employees of Fukutake Publishing.
Now the island has a number of art galleries and site-specific works, including a sento bath and art-houses (old local houses converted into installation spaces).
Just getting there was an experience. I started off on the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Hiroshima, to gain time, as the local trains after the section on bullet train would take some time. The great thing about train travel in Japan is that trains go when they are expected and you can get detailed travel plans with all train connections including which platform you will arrive and which you need to go to to change. So journeys are not at all stressful as you know exactly where you are going and when.
After the train journey, I got on the ferry which is just about 20 minutes journey to the island.
On the ferry
Arriving
It is definitely true about journey sometimes being more important than the destinations. I think travelling and getting to places are great experiences. However, that is not to say this destination was not worthy of the journey.
On getting off the ferry, I made my way to the hostel I had booked for the night to leave my bag and to rent a bicycle for the 2 days I would be staying. I had heard it was good to get around by bicycle - there are buses between the sites and walking is possible but biking is the best option.
I think the guy thought maybe I had not cycled before as I almost fell off the bike on taking it.... however, I managed to stay upright and made my way to the other side of the island, to see the art-house project.
To enter the 6 art-houses, you need to buy one ticket which allows you to access all. First you have to find the ticket selling place... after a few wrong turns, found it and I was on my way. However, finding some of the sites proved to be more difficult! Cycling round and round the near deserted streets of the port and suddenly happening on the destination made it like a treasure hunt.
Although some of them were more obvious from outside, others were just as they would have been as houses in the town, without any kind of signage....
I think these art-houses really encompassed the idea as art as an experience, an all over thing, surrounding the viewer. This really made me think about how that is possible, how to achieve that. For example in my chosen discipline, painting, how can I make it an all over experience. How to engage with installation to make it a whole involvement. I think this could be a really interesting, involving and rewarding way to progress with my work.
I then cycled on round to some outside art pieces at the Benesse art complex. From a distance you can see one of the famous pumpkin on the pier....
The other pumpkin on the island is at the pier when you arrive by ferry. However I didn´t see it at first, although it is supposed to be one of the first things you see when you arrive....
Had to wait a while to take a photograph as there were two idiots taking photos of the pumpkin, with altered perspective, so it looks like eating it or holding it etc. I don´t suppose they were the first to do that....
A picnic lunch then on to the Lee Ufan museum. The museum is partially underground and was designed by Tadao Ando. The idea is to work with nature and complement the space. It is a very peaceful place and it resonates depth and strength. The place has a very calming effect, right down to the gallery assistants tiptoeing around, asking you to remove your shoes.
After more cycling about, I decided to go back to the main town to get a hot drink and then check into the hostel. But on the way, stopping to see this:
I found a cafe which, apart from the terrible Christmas covers CD on repeat, was very sweet. It is clearly the quiet season, so I was the only customer, I think they were delighted to see me! The younger woman seemed to be in charge with an older woman who didn´t seem to know what she was doing but trying to be so helpful, but the younger woman kept her right, so sweet to watch them. Like they had a hobby coffee shop together.
In Japan cake & coffee set is quite popular (and cheaper) so I went for that.... although, as usual, not really sure what I was ordering. But I got this:
And this:
A great surprise, yum.
Then onto the hostel.... the room turned out to be a ship storage container with bunk beds! Crazy... but it works.
There was just one other girl there, who was sweet and friendly. However, she was in her pyjamas before 7pm!
sento public bath, which was just next door. It is called I love you.
Looks like this outside.
http://www.naoshimasento.jp/#/en
It is decorated to reflect the world of artist Shinro Ohtake. It is like stepping into a crazy word, but otherwise just like a regular sento bath. For the first half hour I was alone, and was so great to soak in the hot bath and relax.
The only thing about sentos and onsens is that after soaking in the hot water, you are completely wiped out. So it was back to the hostel and bed...
The next day was noticeably colder so cycling around was not as much fun. However, I went to the Chichu museum, which is again, designed around the land and the artworks within it. It is a beautiful space which has a calming and relaxing effect. It makes use of natural light, so that the exhibits change by the minute and by the season, when clouds pass and the time of day.
However, this museum was the most expensive of all on the island - 2000 yen, about 16.50 pounds. Although it was well worth seeing, I think that on the whole, all the art museums on the island are extremely overpriced. I understand that maybe costs are higher on the island, but if you figure in the cost of seeing the exhibits plus the high cost of travel in Japan, it makes it a very expensive trip, which I know would put off some visitors, which is a shame as it is a great experience to visit the island.
After that, I decided to cycle round the rest of the island. Part of the island is prohibited to enter as it is an industrial area. But you can cycle past it to get back to the other side. It was interesting to see that side of the island, as the industrial history dominates - although now the art centre has surely changed the island, it still has this very industrial, opposite side. This is all part of the place and it was interesting to see that contrast.
After a quick visit to the 007 James Bond museum (yes, really, http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5480.html)... it was time to take the ferry back to then catch the train back to Kyoto.
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